13th-17th January - Cyprus (part one)

I’m just back from 5 days in Cyprus, a relaxing trip with straightforward birding, good weather and great food. I managed to chalk up a few Western Palearctic ticks amid 79 species, and the general birding was decent – indeed, I was surprised at the densities of birds in a country much maligned for its hunting culture.

Male Cyprus Warbler, Pissouri, 17/1/2018

Instead of a full-blown trip report for an already well-documented birding country, I’ve summarised my experiences of key sites, generally based on 2-4 visits over the course of the holiday. We were based in the quaint village of Pissouri, so most birding took place in the south and west of the island, and consequently we visited the same sites multiple times.

I’ve gone into detail on sites for Cyprus Warbler and Cyprus Scops Owl, two endemic species that are fairly difficult to see, certainly in the winter. Finally, I’ll do a separate post on the gulling I got in, as this was particularly educational and enjoyable. That post will also cover Lady’s Mile and the wetland sites south of Larnaca to some extent.

Paphos sewage farm

We made 3 visits to this site, which had a nice mix of species, though views in the actual sewage plant were restricted. The best bird here was a Black Francolin on the 14^th, a male initially flushed from the meadows west of the plant, and then seen briefly in a hedgerow. This bird and another distant one were singing at dawn.

Spur-winged Lapwing, Paphos Sewage Farm, 17/1/2018

Up to 25 resident Spur-winged Lapwings were present on each visit, though only outside the fenced plant on the 17^th, which is when the best views were obtained. A couple of Cattle Egrets were here on the 14^th, and a gorgeous adult Bonelli’s Eagle was perched roadside to the east of the site on the 15^th, affording great views and actually audible as it was mobbed by Hooded Crows.

Passerine action was headlined by Red-throated Pipits – there were 2 on the 14^th, and at least one on the 17^th. Excellent birds, and after the mystery (or ex-mystery!) Pipit that flew over the patch in October, a lead instigator for this trip and real eureka moment.

Paphos headland

Just one visit here on the 14^th, in order to connect with the Greater Sandplovers that winter on the rocky shore. 3 birds of the columbinus subspecies were seen at close range, appearing far slighter and more delicate than Collins depicts. 20+ Golden Plovers were with them.

Red-throated Pipit, Paphos Headland, 14/7/2018

The short grass from the car park to the headland was excellent for passerines. Best of all was a very showy 1^st-winter Red-throated Pipit, allowing a thorough study of its plumage against the 25+ Meadow Pipits also about – a far creamier breast and underparts, and a fine yellow bill. A flock of Spanish Sparrows were knocking about, 1 Crested Lark was with 15 Skylarks and 2 Corn Buntings were in voice.

Anarita Park

The reliable Finsch’s Wheatear site, and it delivered on the 14^th, despite some rather vague directions in Gosney. After finding the grassy plateau at 34.763630, 32.539137, which can be driven to, it didn’t take long to locate the wintering male on the rocky hillside to the north. Whilst always keeping distant good views could be had. There was no sign of the female.

Mandria

A really nice stretch of coastal arable farmland between Pissouri and Paphos, which held a large mixed pipit/lark/wagtail flock. There were probably many more than the 24 Skylarks, 17 White Wagtails, 6 Crested Larks and 20 Meadow Pipits that were counted on the 14^th, and not just 2 Red-throated Pipits, which were always heard before seen.

Bonelli's Eagle, Paphos sewage farm, 15/1/2018

On the 14^th there was also a ringtail Hen Harrier, and 2 Chukars flew over the road. On the 15^th the size of the aforementioned flock was similar, and 4 Yellow-legged Gulls moved offshore.

Pissouri area

The habitats surrounding our apartment was really good, with farmland similar to Mandria running down to Maquis scrub and eventually leading to Pissouri Bay. This whole area was very productive for Cyprus Warbler, and I imagine a search of any suitable scrubby habitat would reveal a bird here.

The best site was an area of cliff maquis west of Pissouri Bay. By taking the road south at 34.652637, 32.719449, to the Columbia Beach Resort, the road goes past the hotel and to an apparent overflow car park. At the west end of this car park, the scrub on the cliffs to the north-west held at least 2 pairs of Cyprus Warblers. The area of scrub at 34.648478, 32.718112 produced presumably the same pair on 2 mornings.

Other sites that held Cyprus Warblers included the maquis to the west of the lay-by at 34.654769, 32.718197, and the scrub at 34.657766, 32.717142. As mentioned, a search of any suitable looking habitat in this general area should produce.

Other birds in and around Pissouri included several Chukars and 4 Hawfinches (from the apartment balcony!).

Greater Sandplover, Paphos Headland, 14/1/2018

Lady’s Mile and Zakaki Marsh

Lady’s Mile was visited for the gulls, and whilst some close-range views of Armenians were had on the beach, numbers were disappointing. I’ll go into more detail in the second post, but aside from the Armenians and a sole Slender-billed Gull, there wasn’t loads of note.

Zakaki Marsh was visited on the morning on the 15^th and was very productive, with 2 Moustached Warblers, a Bluethroat and 3+ Penduline Tits all seen. The former was a lifer – I’d only previously heard this species.

Troodos

This mountain town is home to a few Cypriot sub-species, and it certainly made for a change to be birding in snow instead of 20 degree heat. 3 Crossbills were seen in flight, and 1 ‘Dorothy’s’ Short-toed Treecreeper was knocking about. The Cypriotes Coal Tits were numerous, and both looked and sounded very different to those encountered in the UK - possibly worthy of full-species elevation one day? A Hawfinch flew over.

Male Finsch's Wheatear, Anarita Park, 14/1/2018

Mavrokolympos reservoir

The track leading east towards the reservoir is mentioned by Gosney as a reliable Cyprus Scops Owl site, and it certainly delivered. Despite being warned that this species is hard to see, particularly in the winter, we heard one calling within minutes of pulling up at the recommended lay-by/track at 34.850312, 32.396198.

By patient scanning of the ridge on the south side of the road, 2 Cyprus Scops Owls were eventually seen, both in flight. They called surprisingly frequently, but the views weren’t amazing. A covey of 6 Chukars were also here.

Gulls up next.